New Orleans: Misuderstood city, misunderstood mayor

Yesterday was Martin Luther King Day. In New Orleans, this held special significance, since many African-American residents still have not returned. Areas that are up and running were those minimally affected and have a higher demography of whites than other parts of the city. The city was previously 70% black, and now no one really knows exactly (from my recent visit, I would imagine the Hispanic percentage has gone up, due to many laborers from Texas coming in), but there are certainly a lot of African-Americans displaced.

According to the New Orleans Times Picayune, the turn out for the traditionally well-attended parade was a mere fraction from past parades. And the mayor took the opportunity make a speech hoping for the future that former residents would return. He made a comment that "at the end of the day, this city will be chocolate."

This comment produced an immediate uproar from the city, and apparently the nation, as I heard a reference to it briefly this a.m. on NPR. Many of Nagin's critics would have his job, as he is not a career politician and people who are more power-savvy want it back in this time of national attention. Nagin was formerly a business manager at Comcast. Personally, I find his naivete refreshing in a world of calculated, focus-grouped, sanitized political drones. I was not offended by his "racial" comments. I think he has a valid point that the city has lost some of its most essential residents.(Although Nagin lost me when he said God is punishing America with natural disasters; this comment immediately damages his credibility. But that's another issue.)

I want to say that 1) I think the reaction to Nagin's comment shows just how racially charged the country really has become. I used to believe it was just the South, but here in the Midwest I see similar paranoia-twinged racial reactions. And 2) Nagin is correct to give hope for the color and diversity of the city to return. This diaspora of poor blacks is a real problem. We don't want some scrubbed-clean, Vegas-y version of New Orleans. Certainly better schools, more economic opportunity, improved services, and more responsive government - all hopes for the "new" New Orleans - are improvements that are long overdue. But this does not entail keeping the city as white as possible. It means raising the standards for all citizens. And bringing back the rightful residents.

I'm proud of Nagin for saying what people are too politically correct to utter. I'm not the first to notice that rampant political correctness is paralyzing forums of speech in many arenas, public and private, policy, business and academics.

Recently I was recounting a fantastic memory about living in New Orleans to a friend: While living in a neighborhood known for its eclectic diversity and unspoilt architecture, my roommate Lara and I were awoken early one sunny and beautiful Mardi Gras morning by an eerie and otherworldly chant coming from outside. We ran to the balcony to see what this could be. There, alone on the deserted street, banging a tambourine and chanting an ancient vernacular, was a proud and splendid Mardi Gras Indian chief, dressed in an eye-popping display of explosive color.

As is tradition in neighborhoods of color, he was calling his tribe out for the long-anticipated day of festivities. It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever been privileged to witness in all my travels around the globe. I felt privy to the mysterious and vibrant culture of one of the most unique cities in America. It was a great way to start my favorite holiday, which commenced with much merrymaking and costuming and parading.

That was 1997. Will there be Mardi Gras Indians this year? Are they dispersed to Houston and Atlanta and Detroit, hoping to reunite with their tribe? A tribe their grandfathers and great grandfathers belonged to? Nagin is correct to give hope, to call back the rightful owners of the city's cultural heritage. His words are understood by those who matter. These are the citizens of New Orleans. And yes, many of them happen to have a lovely color, like chocolate.